This has been an excellent week for climbing as long as you picked sun or shade according to the temperature. Pete Johnson and I headed over to Gogarth on Wednesday 29th May with the Main Cliff as our objective, with low tide at 11.00. We arrived to find low water but our intended route, Dinosaur was still in the shade and looking decidedly damp. So we decided to tackle Eraserhead, a route that I previously climbed about 15 years ago. At that time it had been graded at E6 so it had seemed like a big challenge at the time. Nowadys the consensus is that E5 is a more fitting grade, albeit "distinctly uphill" throughout. And so it proved; we enjoyed a fantastic climb bathed in sunshine and reached the top in time to attend the BMC Cymru area meeting kindly hosted by the RSPB cafe at South Stack.
The diary of a Mountain Guide and climbing coach
Wednesday 30 May 2012
Saturday 19 May 2012
British Mountain Guides open day
SteveMLT's photostream on Flickr.
This year's open day was attended by 6 prospective future Guides. I joined them for the afternoon's cragging (after a morning of tree felleing at home!) The weather was decidedly suspect so we drove over to Wales's "rain shadow" where sure enough the rock was dry and almost warm! My partner Rich and I swung leads on the classic E1, "Last Slip" a Joe Brown classic that was previously a real "sandbag" at HVS.
Friday 18 May 2012
Mr Softy Wen Zawn
A panoramic shot giving a hint of the spectacular position of this modern classic "rock" climb - the clue is in the name! I've been wanting to climb this adventurous route since watching a team climb it during the BMC International Climbing Meet several years ago. Yet another amazing day out at Gogarth, interspersed between days in the office and dodgy showers inland. This particular route was the most enjoyable outing, though earlier battles included "Barbarossa" (E6+) and The Cruise (E5).
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